There are instruments whose purpose goes beyond mere practical use. The pilot’s chronograph is one such example.
Created to measure, it has evolved to survive - the vibrations of the cockpit, the rigours of aerial combat, the demands of space agencies. Every technical advance it has undergone owes nothing to aesthetic whim: it responds to a real constraint, posed by a pilot, an engineer, or a set of military specifications. Functionality at its best.
It is this story that we tell here: the story of the watches that accompanied the pioneers of aviation, from the first wrist chronographs to lunar watches, from the great watchmaking houses to French military commissions. A story that is not found in jewellers’ display cases, but in cockpits, on the gloved wrists of those who pushed the boundaries of the sky.
It is also this story that has guided, both technically and philosophically, the design of the Waypoint - the chronoscope from the French watch brand DÉDALE, designed by an aeronautical engineer and pilot, so that the legacy of these exceptional watches does not remain merely in the history books.
A STRATEGIC ALLIANCE
Air navigation requires calculating estimated flight times, fuel consumption, etc. The chronograph then becomes a fully-fledged onboard instrument, as vital as the compass or altimeter.
Some chronographs that have marked the conquest of the sky and beyond:
1913
Longines 13.33Z / Omega CHRO 18'''
The Longines 13.33Z is the first wrist chronograph. Equipped with a column wheel, a 30-minute counter and a single pusher located on the crown, this chronograph made Longines the supplier to the Fédération Aéronautique Internationale from 1919.
At the same time, Omega released their first wrist chronograph equipped with the CHRO 18''' caliber. An unusual feature was the chronograph pusher being located at 6 o'clock, making it the first wrist chronograph with an independent pusher (Breitling would file a patent for the independent pusher at 2 o'clock, but two years later).
Longines 13.33Z ~1913 / Omega CHRO 18''' ~1913 | Credit: Alexandre Landre
1934
Breitling
Breitling standardized the chronograph architecture by officially introducing a second, independent pusher at 4 o'clock, dedicated exclusively to resetting. This innovation, patented by Willy Breitling, marked the emergence of the modern two-pusher configuration: one at 2 o'clock to start and stop the measurement, and one at 4 o'clock for resetting.
Advertisement for the first chronograph with two independent pushers | Credit: Breitling
But...
Innovating without pretension
Longines with 13.33Z modified caliber with flyback function - 1929 | Credit : Longines
1936
Longines ref. 3770 - Caliber 13ZN
This legendary caliber is the first integrated flyback chronograph , patent filed in June 1935 and granted in March 1936.
Longines 13ZN - 1936 | Credit: Longines
1938
Hanhart
During World War II, Hanhart supplied German Air Force (Luftwaffe) and Navy (Kriegsmarine, designated KM) pilots with chronographs equipped with the Calibre 40 movement and a single pusher. Several series were produced: fixed bezel, bidirectional rotating bezel with a metal pointer, and finally, bidirectional bezel with a red painted marker.
The date of entry into production is still debated today. 1938 is often officially cited, while a group of enthusiasts who have thoroughly researched the history of this chronograph believe that production only began in 1942, based on serial numbers.
The caliber 41, with two pushers and Flyback (called "Temposchaltung" by the brand), arrived around 1943. The red pusher served as a visual reference to avoid any handling error.
Hanhart unsigned, single-pusher Calibre 40 series with rotating bezel and metal pointer | Credit: everywatch.com / Hanhart double-pusher Calibre 41 series ~ 1943 | Credit: Hanhart
1941
Tutima Glashütte Fliegerchronograph
The German watchmaking group UROFA-UFAG was founded in 1926 by Dr. Ernst Kurtz. It comprised two complementary entities: UROFA (Uhren-Rohwerke-Fabrik Glashütte AG), specializing in the production of movement blanks, and UFAG (Uhrenfabrik Glashütte AG), dedicated to the assembly of complete watches. To designate its most premium models, the group created the Tutima brand, derived from the Latin "tutus," meaning "safe" or "protected." Initially, Tutima thus exclusively designated the highest quality watches produced by the manufacture.
In 1941, Tutima developed the military aviator chronograph intended exclusively for the Luftwaffe (German Air Force), caliber UROFA 59, with Flyback function (called "Tempostopp" by the brand), of superior quality to Hanhart.
As with Hanhart, the official dates and those obtained through extensive research are debated. The first series (which has the same type of rotating scope with a metal pointer as the Hanhart) is believed to have entered service from 1941, or possibly 1942.
In 1945, on the eve of the Russian invasion, the factories were bombed. Dr. Kutz, aware of the impending air raid, fled with some of his employees and managed to save a few essential machines and tools. They settled in Memmelsdorf, West Germany, and continued small-scale production. In 1951, they moved to Ganderkesee. The new factory opened in 2008 in Glashütte marked the brand's return to its roots.
Tutima ~1942 / Tutima ~1943 | Credit: glashuetteuhren.de
During the occupation, the French brand Dodane was commissioned to service Hanhart and Tutima watches. After the war, some watches were assembled from remaining spare parts. The dials were rebadged DOD and IRAM (possibly five watches), brands belonging to Dodane. Three stars are printed over "Glashütte" to obscure the inscription.
Tutima Glashütte rebadged DOD | Credit: Corsaire75 / Tutima Glashütte rebadged IRAM | Credit: glashuetteuhren.de
Some of them would have been used for prototyping the future Type 20.
Excerpt from the Japanese book by K. Imai - Tutima Glashütte rebadged DOD and Type 20 markings | Credit: World Photo Press
1952
Breitling Navitimer
Based on the Breitling Chronomat ref 769 which appeared in 1942 - which is the first wrist chronograph to incorporate a slide rule not intended for aeronautics - the AOPA (Aircraft Owners & Pilots Association) asked Breitling to design a watch that would be offered exclusively to its members: the Navitimer was born.
It is the first wrist chronograph to incorporate a slide rule intended for aeronautics, allowing the functions of multiplication, division, hourly speed (not to be confused with the tachymeter scale base 1000 meters which adorns many watches), fuel consumption, average and distance of descent or ascent, conversion to nautical miles, statuary or kilometers, and finally exchange rate.
A consumer version was released in 1954, under the reference 806.
Breitling Navitimer AOPA ~1952 | Credit: Le Petit Poussoir / Breitling Navitimer 806 ~1955 / Credit: Breitling
1954
The "Type 20"
In France, the Ministry of National Defence and the Armed Forces is developing a set of specifications called Type 20, opening a call for tenders aimed at equipping its pilots with robust, reliable and precise chronographs.
The key specifications , although stipulated that they are not mandatory, include in particular (based on the Type 21 technical program of 1956) :
| Manual mechanical movement with Flyback function * (also known as "Nocturne" at Dodane) | Shockproof system | Minimum power reserve of 35 hours |
| Ability to withstand more than 300 on/off cycles of the chronograph function | Radioluminescent hour numbers 1 to 12 | Radioluminescent needles |
| A movable bezel bearing a radioluminescent marker that can be positioned, by rotation, opposite and as close as possible to a graduation on the dial | Resistance to a 5G acceleration for 1 minute | Approximately 37mm in diameter |
SEE THE ORIGINAL TYPE 21 TECHNICAL PROGRAM (IN FRENCH)
Four watchmaking companies responding to this call for tenders have been selected:
 Vixa Type 20 ~ 1954 | Credit: Pascal Karp |
Vixa
Using German Hanhart movements and components seized as war reparations. Approximately 5000 copies produced. Movement: Hanhart cal. 4054 / cal. 15 |
Auricoste
Watches supplied mainly to the Naval Air Arm and a few examples to the Flight Test Center (CEV). Approximately 2000 copies produced. A small series of copies was also supplied to the Argentine and Moroccan armies. Movement: Lemania 2040 (based on the Lemania 15tl with the addition of the Flyback function) |
 Auricoste Type 20 ~ 1954 | Credit: l'Atelier du temps |
 Breguet Type 20 ~ 1954 | Credit: Artcurial |
Breguet
Watches supplied to the Air Force (approximately 2000 units with a 30-minute counter), to the Naval Aviation (approximately 500 units) and to the Flight Test Center (possibly 500 units with 2 counters and 80 units with 3 counters) having the particularity of having a 15-minute counter instead of 30 minutes. Movement: Valjoux 222 (based on Valjoux 22 with the addition of the Flyback function) |
Dodane
(under the brands Dodane, Airin, Airain, IRAM, DOD, Chronofixe - with or without "e" - or also without marking)
These brands will supply the Air Force with some Type 20s but mainly with the Type 21 (approximately 5000 produced in total), a few will also be supplied to the ALAT (Army Light Aviation)
Movement: Valjoux 222 / Valjoux 231 / Valjoux 235
Chronofixe Type 20 ~ 1954 | Credit: Cafenoir-montres.com / Dodane Type 20 ~ 1960 | Credit: De Baecque / Dodane Type 21 ~ 1969 | Credit: thewatchcollector.co.uk
1957
Omega Speedmaster
Originally designed for motorsport with its tachymeter scale, the Speedmaster became, after rigorous NASA testing, the official chronograph of the Apollo space missions.
It became the first watch worn on the Moon on July 21, 1969 on the wrist of Edwin Eugene - Buzz - Aldrin Jr., Neil Armstrong having left his in the lunar module.
First edition of the Omega Speedmaster CK2915-1 - 1958 | Credit: Omega / Omega Speedmaster 105.012 "Moonwatch" - 1964 | Credit: Luxo Time Firenze
1969
Arrival of the first automatic chronographs
Several Swiss watchmaking companies, including Zenith and the "Chronomatic" group associating Heuer-Leonidas, Hamilton-Buren, Breitling and Dubois Dépraz, were competing to create the first self-winding mechanical chronograph.
The Chronomatic Group, with the caliber 11 (under the name of project 99 started in 1965) announced simultaneously on March 3, 1969 in New York and Geneva, then presentation of the prototype watches exhibited in Basel a month later, will only be marketed in the summer of that same year.
Seiko Speedtimer "Pogue" 6139
Seiko was quietly developing its own version: the Speedtimer 6139. Based on serial numbers, this model is believed to have been the first automatic chronograph sold between January and March. Some Seiko 6139-6000 pieces have dial references indicating a production date of December 1968.
In 1973, during his preparation for the Skylab 4 mission, astronaut William Reid Pogue used his Seiko Speedtimer 6139-6005 , as he had not yet received his official service watch, the Omega Speedmaster (a hand-wound mechanical chronograph). Attached to the reliability of his Seiko, he decided to take it with him into space alongside the Omega once it arrived.
Although not approved by NASA, the Seiko 6139 thus became the first automatic chronograph to travel into space , an achievement which has earned it the nickname "Pogue".
Seiko Speedtimer 6139-6005 | Credit: Phelippeau / Astronaut William R. Pogue and his Seiko Speedtimer at the controls of the Apollo telescope | Credit: NASA
SPECIAL MENTION
1904
Cartier Santos
It is impossible to conclude this history without mentioning the Cartier Santos, the first wristwatch designed for masculine and functional use.
It was born from the friendship between Louis Cartier and Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviation pioneer, who expressed his need to be able to tell the time while flying without taking out a pocket watch.
The Cartier Santos is the first pilot's wristwatch.
Cartier Santos - 1904 | Credit: unknown / Alberto Santos-Dumont | Credit: unknown
TODAY
2025
DÉDALE Waypoint
To date, no historic achievement, no revolutionary patent, no first entry in the history books. A disadvantage? Quite the contrary...
History is being shaped alongside us. In your own way, become our pioneers, our Santos-Dumonts, Aldrins, Pogues, Newmans or even McQueens (no less!).
Evolution is limitless when it starts from a blank page.
THE MODERN PILOT'S WATCH
Because history is in the heart of every enthusiast, we wanted to pay homage to it by incorporating the best of the most beautiful pilot's watches mentioned earlier.
But rather than a simple nod to the past, or a reissue of a forgotten name, we have designed a true instrument of today, a timepiece designed for the requirements of the modern pilot: a watch that is functional in the air, versatile on the ground.
In the cockpit, the Waypoint prioritizes functionality, legibility, and precision. Its clear dial, Super-LumiNova enhanced indices, highly precise 60-click bidirectional bezel, and state-of-the-art movement make it an infallible ally during flight.
In everyday life, it reveals a new side of itself. Its alternating brushed and polished finishes, faceted hands, mirror-polished applied hour markers, sapphire crystal insert, and 10 bar water resistance give it a distinctive, robust, and elegant look that sets it apart. Its subtle details are revealed a little more with each wear, offering a constantly renewed experience.
Accompanied either by an Italian leather strap for a dressy and historical touch, or by a steel bracelet with a strong character for a more singular and modern silhouette, the Waypoint navigates with ease between technical requirement and assumed refinement.
INSTRUMENT OF MASTERED TIME
The chronograph, or rather the chronoscope (see article), is therefore not a watch like any other. It is not a passive witness to time. It is a tool. An ally. An instrument for decision-making .
From the wrists of aviation pioneers to those of astronauts, it has remained true to its role: measuring the perfect moment. We honor this role in our Waypoint collection.
Sources and references
Breitling Chronomat - a short history, part 1: The Slide Rule Chronomats by Altro - Watchuseek
Omega Speedmaster History Part 1 – the early pre-moons by Brice Goulard - Monochrome
The Seiko Pogue Legend by Troy Barmore - Chrono24
The Real Story of the Skylab 4 “Strike” in Space by John Uri - NASA
The true story of the El Primero caliber by Fabienne Reybaud - Le Figaro
Breitling Navitimer User Manual
History of the Type 20 - The Little Push Button
Pilot's Chronograph Type 59 - USSR.watch
Production of Hanhart & Tutima started in Autumn 1942: some evidence - vintage-time.de
Tutima Fliegerchronograph mit UROFA Kaliber 59 - glashuetteuhren.de
Tutima Glashütte - überdrucktes Zifferblatt (Dodane) by cfk - vintage-time.de
Essay on the history of the DOD Tutima and DOD Hanhart by Corsaire75 - FàM
TUTIMA GLASHUTTE DOD (Dodane) by Corsaire75 - mechanical watches
Tutima by Ambrose Lancaster - TimeTransformed
Saxony becomes Lower Saxony - Tutima
Historical military watches - Dodane
An unusual bronze piece by Corsaire75 - FàM
Tutima, pioneer of the German wristwatch by Benjamin Teisseire - Europastar
The Type 20: French Military Chronographs by Stephen Sugiyama - classicwatch.com
Start of mass production of the Breguet Type XX chronograph
Personal archives